Quote from: joecool85 on January 01, 2023, 05:33:16 PMAssuming that there is a fuse somewhere on the amplifier...Yes, there is a fuse. A t3.15al250v on the circuit board. And, in other news...
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Show posts MenuQuote from: joecool85 on January 01, 2023, 05:33:16 PMAssuming that there is a fuse somewhere on the amplifier...Yes, there is a fuse. A t3.15al250v on the circuit board. And, in other news...
Quote from: Loudthud on July 16, 2022, 05:05:02 AMWhere can I find out more about the EU's Right to Repair regulations ?I found it here.
Quote from: Enzo on December 28, 2021, 07:00:48 PMI was trying to avoid having to disassemble it again. But I did. That resistor measured 182K. Replaced the resistor and the cap and now the board functions. Thanks.
You have a good board? Stick your ohm meter probes on the good one and see what it measures.
Quote from: flester on January 22, 2021, 02:04:11 PM
Heres the noise which comes in as I increase the volume. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KL_uZ8kQ9_aCp2k0lP7rCePaSFM_Zxf0/view?usp=drivesdk
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Quote from: GlenF on May 10, 2019, 05:57:24 PM
I have tried three times to upload a pic. Not sure what to do now.
Quote from: phatt on November 07, 2018, 07:09:36 AM
Unless those speakers hold some sentimental value it's hardly worth the effort
Quote
...and keep the broken stuff as it's a source of spare parts...
Quote from: g1 on November 06, 2018, 08:21:05 PM
Measure DC volts at all 9 pins and post your results...
Quote from: Cpt. FixIt on November 06, 2018, 03:09:25 PM
...If you take a look at the reference schematic on page 4, you can see an electrolytic cap C3 for ripple rejection. I would take a look at that one first...
Quote from: Cpt. FixIt on November 06, 2018, 02:23:25 AM
...Does the device still pass signal or is the buzz the only sound it makes?What is the device on the heatsink? Would be helpful to have a reference schematic from the manufacturers datasheet...