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#1
Thank you sir I roughly eyeballed the male pins and I came up with about 1/16 and that is about 0.063 then I see they have 0.062 and 0.93 (among others I presume)

Then I looked at the extractor tools and stuff and kinda groaned at the startup cost  :grr

Sure would be nice to have those tools though after remembering the times I dealt with them in the past one time repairing a lamp  :grr  :lmao:

#2
I really like TO-3 they are cool I looked them up

The one with the sweet pic 😍 of two diodes is a twin rectifier  :tu:

The 2N3055 is a 60v NPN transistor and apparently is still available.
#3
Idk if this is gonna be useful for anything
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I'm gonna try the plus and minus 5v on my Op-Amps  xP

It would be cool 😎 to find a good use for it it's built like a tank.  I just don't have an immediate need for 49v DC. 

I need to figure out why when I measured across the filter cap I got 78v.   :loco

Also these transformers are kind of a trip it looks like all of the terminals are on one side.

That fan is a beast too.  Crazy how much lint dust bunnies 🐇 🐰 and mud daubers and stuff was inside.


#4
Looks like I need to get the old pins out which are male on one end and through hole on the other

Then replace with male crimped to wire

Duh   :loco
#5
I have a harness from a boat anchor power supply I don't want to cut it up so I desoldered the male connectors from a circuit board 🛹
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Here they are with the harness (the big 🔌 plug top right connects to the PS)
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I just need to attach some wire/leads whatever to the male doodads
I think the pins remove and I attach wire or just get pins with wire and install

Thanks   :tu:

#6
I actually have a big boat anchor power supply that has +5, -5, 10 and 49v used in the 90s for my friends wife's families answering service.

At first I was wondering if I could convert the plus and minus 5v to plus and minus 15v but I think that will be too complicated.

So I started looking at supply voltage for these Op-Amps and I am seeing a range....I was wondering if they operate the same over a voltage range.  For instance does it matter if it's plus and minus 11v..?  When I was trying to decipher the data sheets they did list a max of 20v.

I was gonna duplicate the experiment using plus and minus 5v and see if I got the same results.  But when I went to set it up I didn't want to butcher the nice molex harness so I'm gonna have to get some molex connectors .

Regardless I need a convenient source of Vs to do this on a regular basis.

:grr
#7
The experiment has reached a conclusion

The one amp fuse opened at exactly 3v

1.5 amp  :tu:

I guess

#8
I'm back with a five watt two ohm resistor

Holding steady at 0.5A

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Now on to 0.75A
 :loco
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And feeling particularly bold 0.89A (eek xP )

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To boldly go....

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#9
So I got this bag of fuses (1A 250V) and they looked good but I thought hey why not check one of these things  :tu:

So I came up with a plan....put the fuse in circuit with a 10 ohm fuse and run it up to 10v
while keeping an eye on it.

Well I started at 7.9v and the smoke show started quickly
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So I did some calculations wow I was going for one amp I never dreamed I would be cranking out some watts
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That resistor is like a quarter or half watt.
 :loco

Btw the fuse survived  :dbtu:

But as I type this now it makes sense why I see these big ceramic wire wound ? resistors and they are low resistance

 8|
 
#10
The Newcomer's Forum / Op-Amp experiment number one
December 09, 2024, 10:03:25 PM
Ok this is what I did

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So I hooked everything up

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Then did some requested calculations

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Seems like a lot of trouble for nothing but I did get the "right answer" the book said for the 741c Op-Amp the typical value for the input offset voltage is 2 mv. 

I'm not yet running through the streets shouting eureka but hopefully later the significance of this will become apparent.

 :loco


#11
Before I buttoned it up I poked around a few capacitaters looking for direct shorts 🩳 to no avail.

I'm back to "dude...it's the relay"

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I was gonna try to 🦘 jump it but figured I would quit while I was ahead....or in the same place  :loco

Meanwhile WOW what a transformer  :dbtu:
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 :tu:
#12
Oh well nm  xP

Looks like I got some component removal and replacement practice
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I replaced the 1815 and it didn't fix the problem and all of the in circuit readings are identical

But ..at least it still "works"  :loco
#13
Ok guys did a little snooping around after work...compiled a list of transistors from the board.
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I checked all of them in diode/continuity mode and the testing was uneventful then crazy the last one I checked  :grr I am focusing on.
Because the outer legs had a low (0.09v) voltage readings.
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I thought I was losing my mind until I remember they are like diodes and POS and neg leads matter...doh

But I compiled a summary of my examination of this particular device aka Q26
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So it's not much but it's something  :lmao:  :'(

But now I'm thinking it must be a result of the circuit that it is in.

 :'(

Time to look at the schematic  xP
#14
This will be good.  I hope I dont report back with tales of falsely accused to-220 voltage regulators  :loco
#15
Lord I was born a rambling man (below):

I tried to find a source for the relay(s) even contacting one established high volume vendor and they didn't have an exact match.

Also some of the Internet lore indicates this PS works on a "break before make" (or vice versa) and is somewhat complicated. 

I had seen an advantage to having "the same" boards on each side" (remember working on drum brakes  :tu: ) but the two sides may not be identical)

Also the schematic (for the digital meter version) I don't see any test voltages anywhere  :loco but maybe I missed them idk.

Anyhow I want to try and keep it simple and do some fundamental inspections without opening a can of worms.  xP