So what do you think the power handling of that 8" speaker would be? 

The typo is probably in the decimal place.  So more like $27.00
Amazon Canada has the same book for $34.99CDN, which would be about right with the  $exchange.  http://www.amazon.ca/Vacuum-Tube-Guitar-Amplifier-Servicing/dp/0933224974/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443660566&sr=8-1&keywords=tino+zottola
Same price at barnes & noble.
Which AC15 top boost do you mean, the re-issue?

Quote from: dropanchor812 on September 21, 2015, 01:10:48 AM
-I don't notice a difference in sound coming from the speaker when I adjust the output waveform when following the directions in the manual.  Is this something I'm just going to need an scope to measure?

You can't follow the directions for this part without a scope, so you were not following the directions. 

Quote from: dropanchor812 on September 21, 2015, 01:10:48 AM-I can't get the center voltage down to ~45v as directed in the manual.  When the trimmer is fully counter-clockwise it only gets down to ~53v.  I'm afraid to turn it fully clockwise because I'm afraid I might blow something, but as it is fully counter-clockwise the amp still sounds great!

This reading is affected by the previous waveform adjustment.  Try moving the B4.7K pot either way and see if it helps you get the center voltage adjustment closer.

  It may pass voltage when you are pushing on it with your meter probe, but it may not pass proper current when you aren't touching it.
Try wrapping a small wire around it to hold it tight to the tab, or even solder it if you are careful and quick.  If you take too long with the solder iron you'll melt the solder in the fuse.

  Yes, it will be fine.  The amp will put out a little less power into the 16 ohm load, but probably not very noticeable.

  In case anyone is interested, attached is pg.2, with the more "complex" jack schematics.

  Those will be fine.  They are equivalent to MJ15015 but with a higher voltage spec.
For Peavey, it means one less part to stock, as they can use them for both MJ15015 and MJ15024 applications.
  You can consider it an upgrade, or "beefier" part. 

Inexperience does not always equal stupidity.  Not only is this a TRS jack, but has 2 internal switches (normally closed), one on the tip, one on the ring.  Thus the 5 pins.
The schematic representation for that jack would be diagram XII on the attached page.
And they get much more complicated than that.  Switchcraft has a whole other page of more complicated type jacks, this is the "simple" page. 

  Those jack switches look to be bent in a way that prevents the switching function to work properly.

  Also, there may be a short to ground from where ever those screws connect to, that's why the picture will help.

Can you post a pic of the underside of the board in the power transistor area?

  Some amps are picky about only using 1458 in certain positions, many are not.
I think this is one of the fussy ones.  (along with the input IC on some of the smaller Marshall amps)

Quote from: Hawk on August 06, 2015, 03:36:59 PM
I should test to make sure the collector isn't grounded out to the heat sink

Yes

schematic attached. 
There are 2 very common mods to darken these up a bit.
1)  If it doesn't have the bright switch, clip out the cap across the volume control.
2)  There is a "presence" cap in the PI circuit.  In the attached version, it is C11 in the PI area.  Remove it.
  Those are 2 quick easy things to try.

  The quote about the bulb wattage said to use the wattage of the output power, not the input from the AC line (120V).  The 450W is input wattage, the actual amp power output is much less, I think around 150W ?
If the bulb lights up (more than dim), then there is a problem.  That is why the voltages are so low.
  Check for low resistances across the supply rails, which are usually caused by shorted power transistors or rectifier diodes.