parts

[thehsdguy]

I damaged the 1/4" input jack on my hartke hydrive 210c bass combo amp.
I have searched all day for a replacement with no luck.
Any suggestions would be so very helpful.

Thank you...

[Enzo]

Photo?   There are several very common jack types, and your amp could use any one of them, I sure don't know which.  A photo will tell us what you need.  Jacks are not hard to get.

[J M Fahey]

A photo "from outside" is not enough, open the chassis and show the jack body and, more important, the PCB solder pads, the replacement must be able to fit same holes.

[Enzo]

Looking at exterior photos of the whole amp, I can barely see the jack.  Given that, it LOOKS like it might be a Cliff jack.   But that could easily be wrong.

[thehsdguy]

This is of the six soldier points on the board... it is the six in the top left corner...
thank you...  I assume it is broken in side as the circuit board is still in tact.  The amp fell forward with the cord in it and fell right on the cord.  now all I have is a loud buzz even when nothing is plugged in.
Thank you so much for your help.

[J M Fahey]

Thanks for the good pictures   

Unfortunately it's not the "Cliff" jack, a semi-standard one used by many and easy to get, but some weird Korean type.

Search Mouser for 1/4"jacks, many have a clickable datasheet link in the description, so you can check size and pinout.
Open a few to see whether you get lucky.

Or maybe somebody here recognizes it and says : "hey, it's the ###### jack, you can get it at &&&&&&" .
It *might*  match the pesky "Fender Jack" .

Absolute worst case, it can still be repaired with any jack, you just screw it to the front panel with its own nut, mount it sideways or with "legs up" , in any case not touching the PCB, and use short pieces of wire to make the proper connections.

[Enzo]

That wouldn't be a Mouser find, that is one we see only in our industry.  It lacks the clear top, but the footprint below and the overall shape makes me think the basic mono clear top Fender jack would still fit.

Try this:  since the jack has to come out anyway, carefully suck off all the solder on the jack pins and gently remove it.  Now inspect the solder pads.  The solder LOOKS OK in the photo, but the pad itself could have broken off from the rest of the board.  So by removing the jack we can see if the solder pad has come away.

The fact it makes a loud hum tells me it is the ground (sleeve) connection that has failed rather than the hot. (tip)

[J M Fahey]

Now that Enzo suggests it, I can suggest an intermediate step.

Since pad to track continuity is suspect (all pads are connectred to some track or copper area, non is an "island" unless unused), gently scratch, say, 1/8"(a couple mm)  of the insulating varnuish coverin g copper and solder that now bright copper track material to corresponding pad, maybe using a small piece of copper wire, even if it "looks" fine.

It might make the trick even without removal.

If not, you can still pull it later.

[thehsdguy]

Ok I have pulled it all apart and here is the actual pin configuration in pic 1.   The jack itself has some rattle going on so I want to replace it.  Does this look any more common?

Second pic the contact on the circuit board by my finger does appear a little messed up.  Is there enough there to solder to?  or what is the fix for that?
Thanks again

[J M Fahey]

As a pre-answer, those USA based will probably recognize it and suggest a replacement, I'm in Argentina and won't even *try*  to find it

That said, in the bottom PCB picture I see top 3 pads and middle left straight grounded, while middle right and bottom one are joined by a single thin trace which looks very weak reach a pad which looks fine and healthy.

What I mean is that even if you get a new jack and solder it there, that thin track *might*  be damaged (the middle right pad does not look very healthy) so after soldering I'd add a thin copper wire (may be a single strand from a thicker wire) and solder those 3 pads together ensuring proper contact between them, I mean middle right, bottom one and component pad .

If you do not get the same jack I may suggest how to wire a regular one as mentioned earlier.

[Enzo]

Yes, that still looks like the classic Fender plastic jack that usually has a clear top.  The "mono" version.

Agree with Juan, you have some trace damage.  The three across the top look OK.  The two in the center, the left one looks OK.  Note all four so far are grounded to the board ground trace.  The middle pair one on the right has part of the pad torn away.  We can see it sticking up and curling towards the top.  Snip that excess away, and be aware the new jack will only be soldered to the remaining portion of the pad.

From that damaged pad, a thin trace goes down, then to the left and then down again, and in the process crosses right over the single bottom hole.  I cannot see in the glare, but it might have some damage as well.

So what I do is what Juan said, I use a thin bare wire, and solder it to the second row right jack pin, then over to the bottom single jack pin, and yet further on down to one of the component lead ends poking through lower left.  Even if the damaged traces still work, I'd add the wire anyway, because they are not all there, a sort of thin ice, if you will.

[thehsdguy]

Ok so after looking and looking im pretty sure that it is the 4 pin fender jack.  I ordered one so we shall see. 
I drew some lines on this picture of what I think you are saying needs to be done. 
Feedback is appreciated...

[Enzo]

yes.

[J M Fahey]

Basically yes, although for safety I'd have the added wire "fly over the road and not over the surrounding corn fields" if you get what I mean.

As of the PCB design, it's *horrible*  and shows designers have no clue about MI amplifiers and couldn't care less anyway.

PCB design packages compete with each other by claiming :
" I can put 8 components per square inch
"I can fit 16 there"
"look here, I can fit 32"
and so on.
Which is fine if you design computer or cellphone PCBs , but makes for ridiculously thin traces and copper rings around a hole they dare to call "pads".

They also "help" you by autorouting with practically no user input, which also requires thin tracks and small pads to leave the field empty.

In fact, if you pull the useless flooded copper areas and look at the "real" PCB interconnections ... you may puke .

Notice there's a lot of space there, pads could easily be 2X the size used and tracks 4X or more, but lazy (or ignorant)  designer leaves software parameters as received, which are optimized for maximum density, unnecessary here.

To add insult to injury, after the piss poor design is finished , they fill all free space (original design looks like a spiderweb) with "copper flood" which then connect to ground.

So you have ground everywhere , even where unneeded or it even hurts, but practically no copper on tracks, which is needed, besides carrying current, for basic physical strength.

Here's properly designed (manually routed) Laney, with thicker tracks and grounds where needed:


notice they use SMT parts, but PCB is still properly designed (again hand routed, by an experienced designer):


and here's the King of reliable PCBs, one of those indestructible Peaveys, with hand drawn boards (think technical pens, brushes and China/Drafting ink):

[phatt]

This is likely the right part
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/jacks_plugs

Part number;
S-H506-A 
Jack - Mono 4 Pin, PC Mount, for Fender® Amps '88-'99

BUT as you have found out they are fragile and the pad is no longer,,,
so you might be better served by going in a different direction.

You can replace these with METAL switchcraft types such as this one same page; W-SC-L12A

As has already been mentioned you just turn them upside down or sideways and jumper wire across to pcb. :tu:
If the pad is broken away find an open area somewhere along the trace and drill a ~1mm hole either side of the trace and loop a solid tie wire captivating the pcb, trace and jumper wire,,, then solder it. (Of course you gently scrape the green protect off before soldering).

I've found this is so much easier than trying to solder along those thin traces as they lift with heat.

Regard metal jacks;
If there are earth loop issues (Excess hum) then the next best thing is open frame plastic unit
Part number; S-H902  (next page)

Yes I totally agree with JMF the tracks are insane narrow and pads are non existent.
A while back I finally to tracked down a major hum issue with the Fender Pro Junior Valve amp.
The culprit; The trace from volume pot back to grid of valve (Very prone to picking up noise)
runs side by side with the screen HT trace for several inches on the PCB. :duh :duh :duh

Hey press Auto routing,, go home early that weekend ,,, Amp on the shelf for sale next week. :lmao:
Obviously no one at fender knows much about Valve technology and it's hidden gotchas,, and they do not care,,,:trouble

A bit of cutting and a shielded cable return path,,,Now that little Amp is now close to dead silent. <3)
Phil.