Do you mean, all I have to do is put my jack into channel 2?
(I wish it was that simple) :lmao:
In channel 2 I also have tremolo, which also does not work, I have sprayed out the pots with Lloyds brand 'Kleens-it' and worked the knobs.
I don't know if the tremolo and reverb share a bad solder joint or component, I get no response at all from the 'depth' and 'speed' tremolo knobs and reverb knob, but I am sure as I gather from your last post, SS components are themselves are not usually the problem, it's usually a physical problem.
I did go through the reverb with my probes looking for discontinuity, but I didn't work them with a skewer or the like, I cleaned out the plastic board to chassis wire connectors, and spread the male tangs with my jackknife to fit tighter in the females.
Could these two effects share a common fault? A bad solder joint would work sometimes usually wouldn't it? But muh oxidation might prevent continuity I suppose.
Now about the climate, it's damp, but I pulled a 1976 Sansui Stereo from the curbside and sounds awesome, the family stereo a 'realistic' is over 40 years old and still works great. (maybe caps don't dry out as badly here?)
The leads do have a slight patina, but then again the amp is ~40 years old too. And so is my guitar (I re-wired that thing with the Jimmy Page push-pull knob set-up and Darkstar pick-ups)
I ASSUME the tank is OK, it checks out OK.
When I check for volts at the drive output (reverb) I get volt readings with both the AC and DC setting, what is the output supposed to be, I have to hit the string hard for it to register 10v. If I only had a tank that I know works to tell for certain.
I guess I will do as you suggest and Shish-Kabob the component solder joints, I think the alligator clips will come in handy here. (wheres my other damn clips?)
PS, there was no voltage readings at the LDR (Light Detecting Resistor)
I think the reverb and tremolo share the foot switch jack?
(I wish it was that simple) :lmao:
In channel 2 I also have tremolo, which also does not work, I have sprayed out the pots with Lloyds brand 'Kleens-it' and worked the knobs.
I don't know if the tremolo and reverb share a bad solder joint or component, I get no response at all from the 'depth' and 'speed' tremolo knobs and reverb knob, but I am sure as I gather from your last post, SS components are themselves are not usually the problem, it's usually a physical problem.
I did go through the reverb with my probes looking for discontinuity, but I didn't work them with a skewer or the like, I cleaned out the plastic board to chassis wire connectors, and spread the male tangs with my jackknife to fit tighter in the females.
Could these two effects share a common fault? A bad solder joint would work sometimes usually wouldn't it? But muh oxidation might prevent continuity I suppose.
Now about the climate, it's damp, but I pulled a 1976 Sansui Stereo from the curbside and sounds awesome, the family stereo a 'realistic' is over 40 years old and still works great. (maybe caps don't dry out as badly here?)
The leads do have a slight patina, but then again the amp is ~40 years old too. And so is my guitar (I re-wired that thing with the Jimmy Page push-pull knob set-up and Darkstar pick-ups)
I ASSUME the tank is OK, it checks out OK.
When I check for volts at the drive output (reverb) I get volt readings with both the AC and DC setting, what is the output supposed to be, I have to hit the string hard for it to register 10v. If I only had a tank that I know works to tell for certain.
I guess I will do as you suggest and Shish-Kabob the component solder joints, I think the alligator clips will come in handy here. (wheres my other damn clips?)
PS, there was no voltage readings at the LDR (Light Detecting Resistor)
I think the reverb and tremolo share the foot switch jack?