Sorry for the LONG delay.  I did put a Weber in my second Envoy 110 and my oh my, does it rock!!!!

The Bandit 112 is undergoing a serious transformation and I should have an update next week.

Quote from: J M Fahey on November 19, 2011, 06:38:03 PM
Excellent idea.
The Envoy 110 in fact is a "mini Bandit", killer all-purpose amp, only smaller.
And good/excellent speakers never hurt any amp.

Well I just bought a Peavy Bandit 112 off of CL Orlando $125 in excelent shape. It's a Silver Strip first Trans Tube version circa 1995.  It sounds great.

BUT

It is very heavy!  A lot heaveir than the Envoy 110.  No matter. I've got a mad mad project in mind for the Bandit!  More to come! 

I bought a Peavey Envoy 110 out of a pawn shop around Dec 2008 for $40.  It's the first generation circa 1989




I made a stand for it out of a bar stool:



Getting these smaller amps up off the floor really helps with the sound.

I also wired in a switched 120V outlet so when I turn the amp on it sends 120v AC power to my pedal board





I also put in a refreshment holder   



It's my pick up and go amp for jam sessions and open mics.

Anyway,  I have always liked the Peavey amp but the speaker just wasn't as good sounding as my tube rigs (they have lots better speakers -Webers, Celstions ect) so I decided to show the Peavey some love.  I ordered a Weber Vintage series 10" 10F150 8 ohm 50w speaker.  Total cost with shipping was $104.

I installed it today and I am extremely happy with it!!  Weber reccomend the 10F150 and it's a great choice.



The speaker is at least twice the weight of the OEM made in Taiwan speaker.  It has a 50oz ceramic magnet.  I've only been playing on it for an hour but it really improved the sound of the amp.  It ROCKS!  I'm sure it will break in nicely like my other Webers have.

In case it isn't loud enough I've set up an Ampclamp with a Shure SM57 to mic it.   



http://www.ampclamps.com/wtpro.html


I travel between Atlanta and Orlado and I have another Peavey Envoy 110 - a 2nd generation circa 1995 with the TranTube circuit - in my Orlando apt:





I'm gonna have to get a Weber for it as well.   

Thanks Enzo!

I don't have a guitar amp that has an effect loop in it so I was trying to figure it out 'on paper'.

I guess more info would help

I'm building/modding a Squier Strat to be a MIDI guitar.  I'm using the Ghost system.  The guitar will have a humbucking pickup at the neck and the pizo acoustic pickups at the bridge.  It will also have the HEX kit for MIDI out via a standard 13 pin MIDI cable.

What I want to do  (in a live situation) is to run a regular cord out out to my pedal board for the humbucker/pizo acoustic sounds and a 13 pin cable to my Yamaha G50 controller 1U rack size.  The G50 will drive an Alesis QSR 1U rack MIDI sound module.  I want to feed the outputs of the QSR (mono mode) into the power amp stage when I'm doing a sax/horn/flute solo etc via MIDI.  So I need the pre-amp stage to be muted and just have the QSR sounds come out the power amp stage.

I have used a 1U PA power amp driving a set of speakers but that is a pain to set up.  By going throuh the existing amp I eliminate the need for a seperate power amp & speakers.  Also when the amp is miced it's miced for both regular AND MIDI sounds.

I haven't finalized my choice of amp quite yet.  I am really close to getting a Line 6  Spider IV 30.  I have plenty of tube amps but I need a power amp with very little distortion for the MIDI sounds.  A SS amp is the best choice.  Since 'modeling' amps get their change of sounds in the pre-amp stage,  the power stage should have a low THD number.  Of couse Line 6 doesn't give out that info.  I don't need a lot of power - 30 watts is plenty as I will have custom cab built for it.

I know the Spider IV 30 doesn't have an effects loop but since I will be adding custom switching anyway modding it for a FX return loop should be a rather simple task (in theory!).

Does any of this make sense?

I've never used an effect loop so please bear with me.  I've always just put my effects infront of the pre-amp.   As I understand it, the FX loop:

1. Sits between the pre-amp and the power amp.  When used the signal from the preamp is routed to the FX SEND jack.

2.  The signal then goes to the IN of some 'effect' unit (say a flanger stomp box) and then the OUT of the stomp box is connected to the FX RETURN jack.  The FX RETURN jack then routes the signal to the power amp.

3.  The effect unit is constantly on; no need to hit the foot switch.

Sidenote: Years ago we used to have 'pre-amp out' jacks on some amps (balanced or unbalanced - XLR or 1/4") that would send a COPY of the pre-amp signal out so it could feed a larger power amp or be used for recording.  I guess this was the begining of an effect loop.

Questions:
========

1.  When using an FX loop is the *entire* signal routed out the FX SEND jack with nothing going to the power amp?  Or is a portion of the signal still sent to the power amp?   So if I plug a 1/4" cable in the SEND jack will that mute the power amp section unilt a cable is connected to the RETURN jack?

2.  If I have a 2nd signal source (say another preamp) and connect it to the the FX RETURN jack, will that mute the internal pre-amp signal (assuming nothing is plugged into the FX SEND jack?


Practical Problem:
=============

Here's what I want to be able to do.  I want to have an FX RETURN jack on my amp so I can use an external preamp INSTEAD of the existing pre-amp and have the power amp section run the signal to the existing speakers.

I also want to control it by using a foot switch in front of the amp to change from the internal pre-amp and the external pre-amp.

My amp does not have an effects loop so I would have to mod the amp to install the RETURN jack and cut into the tracce that connectes the internal pre-amp out signal to the power amp.

Is this doable?  Any pitfalls I might encounter?

Thanks!

Quote from: joecool85 on November 09, 2011, 02:15:03 PM

Quote from: aoresteen on November 09, 2011, 10:27:37 AM
No the guy on the phone put me on hold while HE went and spoke with the technician.  So what I got was second hand.  But he was very adament about it and was carefull to explain it to me TWICE to make sure I 'got it'.

He was still wrong.  No harm will come from hooking up a speaker with a power handling capacity of 100w, or 1000w or even more.  Just match the impedance.

Thanks.  That's what I've done since 1969.....

I've emailed the Line 6 product manager to see what he says.

Quote from: Evil_Food on November 08, 2011, 08:02:26 PM
You can't damage the amp with speakers rated at higher power.

You didn't speak directly to the technician, did you? There's nothing to support such a claim and I would disregard it. It must be a misunderstanding between technician and support guy.

As far as impedances go, there's no impedance matching for modern solid state amps (it's just pointless and expensive). If the amp says 8 ohms, that means plugging in a 4ohm speaker can overload it, which will sound nasty after certain power output. If it's got separate outputs for different speaker impedances than I would suspect current feedback and you would need to match the labels.

No the guy on the phone put me on hold while HE went and spoke with the technician.  So what I got was second hand.  But he was very adament about it and was carefull to explain it to me TWICE to make sure I 'got it'.

I want to replace the speakers in a Line 6 Spider III 15 and a Line 6 Spider IV 30 but could not find what the speaker ratings are for either amp. I plan on building an external cabinet with multiple speakers for the amps.

I called Line 6 and asked them what speaker load will the amps handle? The person helping me had to speak with a technician and after being placed on hold I was told that both amps come with 4 ohm speakers so the amps can handle a 4 ohm load.

Here's the strange piece:

I was told not to use a speaker whose *power* rating was greater than the amps power rating (not the impedance rating). The Spider IV 30 is a 30 watt amp so I should not use a speaker that can handle more than 30 watts i.e. a 50 watt 4ohm speaker. Using a higher power RATED speaker can damage the amp per Line 6.

I have never heard of such a thing. I run 50 watt amps into cabinets that are rated for 100 watts all the time with no ill effects (yes impedance is matched - 8 ohm cab to 8 ohm amp output).

How can using a speaker that has a higher *power* rating than the amp damage the amp even when you have proper impedance matching?

Is there something different with Line 6 amps that makes this true?


I'm confused!

The 8" Jensen is a CH line meaning 'Chicago'.  They are the same as the Mod series but are sold in Europe as 'Chicago'.

I just got an email explaining this from Jensen tech support.

I did that exactly when I built my 3 speaker cab for my Squier SP10 amp

http://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=870.0

Here's the cab:




The Math:

The 6" Jensen is rated at 15 watts
The 8" Jensen is rated at 20 watts
The Clestion 10" is rated at 60 watts.

The 10" is 8 ohm and gets 50% of the load so it could handle a 120 watt load delivered to the cab
The 8" Jensen is 4 om and gets 25% so it could handle an 80 watt load delivered to the cab.
The 6" Jensen  is 4 ohms and can handle a 60 watt load delivered to the cabinet.

Therefore the MOST power the cabinet can handle safely is 60 watts otherwise the 6" Jensen will blow.

At 60 watts delivered to the cab the 6" Jenson will get 15 watts, the 8" Jensen will get 15 watts and the 10" Celestion will get 30 watts, total of 60 watts, all within their specs.

Quote from: joecool85 on November 03, 2011, 09:31:00 AM
If you don't mind me asking, how expensive was it for the cab to be made?  It looks very professional.

I do not recall exactly.  It was around $225 plus speakers + shipping.  I am very happy with it!

Jeff did a great job on it.

Quote from: joecool85 on November 02, 2011, 03:54:10 PM
.......Any reason you went with a 10", 8" and 6.5" in the cab?  Was it just what you had on hand?

I was looking for a blended tone kida like your old Tri type stereo speakers.  So I knew I wanted a 10" green back.  The 8" Jensen seemed like a logical fit.  No, I didn't have them on hand - had to spend cash to get them

The cab was made by J Designs.  Good company.

http://www.jdesigncabs.com/

I liked this cab so much I had him make me a 15" matching cab for my 1959 Rickenbacker M12 amp opps its gots tubes!

No clips yet but I should have some soon since my studio is almost ready.

UPDATE!

I know this is an old thread but for continuity I thought I'd post here rather than start a new thread.

I went whole hog wild with my SP-10.  I cut it down to a head size and had a custom 3 speaker cab made for it.  Speakers are a 10" greenback and an 8" Jensen along with the 6.5" replacement Jensen:









It sounds GREAT!  I play clean jazz through it and it is LOUD!  Total load is 4 ohms.

No changes.  The output can easily handle a 4 ohm load.  If it were a 2 ohm load I'd be concerened but no issue with a 4 ohm load.

I picked up a used SP-10 in a pawnshop for $20.  It sounded a bit weak & tinny and the overdive is terrible.  The SP-10 uses a 6.5" speaker.  I opened it to see what was inside and it's what I expected - a cheap, cheap speaker (8 ohms).

Jensen makes a MOD series of speakers and they make a 6.5" size 4 ohm.  I found one new on eBay for $30.  Today I installed it and what a difference!!!  The amp is very, very clean.  Add a modeling pedal and it smokes!  Even the OD is a little better (but not much).

I'm very happy with the Jensen MOD speaker.  Here is a shot of the inside of the SP-10 with the Jensen MOD speaker.




Tony
Orlando