Light bulb limiter has been on it since I lost a transistor. Good to know MJI5003 will work..thANKS. Did check them with an ohmeter. I didn't get any time to really get at it today, but should get somewhere this weekend.

Well, looks like the driver trans is good, it measured infinite on all secondary leads. I did remove R140 and R142 and both measure around 2.5 ohms = should be .33 ohms. For whatever reason, pins 11 and 14 are at 24V now with the transistors removed. One of the new transistors is bad, and one of the originals was bad too. I have 3 good ones left. I'll get a couple new .33 resistors installed and then take a reading with those 100 ohm resistors installed in parallel with the 22 ohm ones.

A bit more testing I found about 10V at pins 11 and 14 from driver transformer to Q2. Pins 12 and 13 from driver transformer to Q1 is less than a volt. Sounds like the driver transformer is bad to me. Its a model 28-4300

Got everything hooked up and had some sound for about 15 seconds before R137 started smoking again. Pulled transistors back out, one tested bad. Put 2 new ones back in that test good (I didn't test the new ones the first time) with an ohmeter. Replaced R137 although it tested ok, it did get red hot. With it back together I get sound but its really weak like its not the full signal or power. I tried it with another cabinet too, since I only tested the original speakers with a 9 volt, same thing.
Checked R136, 138, 139 all are in spec. I'm not wanting to trust Q106 if thats playing a part in this.

Sounds good. I found the speaker plug with 2 pairs of leads I figured it must have been wired series parallel. Couldn't find a speaker on ebay at the moment so sounds like I'll be sending it out to get reconed. I'll put a mp3 up soon.

Plugged it in with the transisitors in with the lamp limiter,  bulb barely glows. I was going to plug it in to a speaker but the cab wasn't wired up when I got it, anyone have any ideas how the speakers were wired and what ohms is the output?

I picked up some 3055's at the local electronic supply. Replaced the burnt resistor with same spec, fired it up w/o the transistors in place and looks like its running now. Q1 on pin 5 was 24.5v and Q2 pni 8 52.1v, Q1 base to emitter 654mv, Q2 base to emitter 632 mv. Fire away if anything sounds bad or good before I put the rest back together.

Pulled Motorola 22-3055 transistors out. I have a bunch of MJ15003 and MJ15004 - are they interchangeable with the 3055's?

Thanks loudthud! This is the real schematic, mine uses PT 28-1650 as well. According to the new schem, its R137 that burnt, 22 ohm, 2W resistor. Apparently what I thought was orange bands on that are actually just really faded red ones! Again thanks for the schematic, I'll get the parts today and do testing Q1 and Q2 out of the circuit. I have some extras laying around is there a way to test these?

Sounds like a great idea, I will try that and post what I find.

If I use the Studio Bass schem its R140 or R142 33ohm 10W. Glad I found that 10W figure. I'll get my parts today but may be after xmas before I get any more time in it.
Thanks for the info JM.

I planned on replacing the output transistor at the same time, I am aware sopmething else is wrong down the line, why else would resistors blow, I figured that may be the cause as it usually is. I have bands of orange, orange, black, silver on the resistor, that is a 33 ohm and it looks a lot bigger than a 1 watt.

The burned out guy is a 33 ohm 10%, is it safe to say a 5W will be sufficient?

Definitely keeping the speaker. I'll try to find a replacement but I will get it reconed if I have to. I'm sure this will be worth more in the long run if I keep it as original as possible. I do know those speakers sound good!

Best pic I have at the moment, top right corner of the board just left of a ceramic resistor are two brown resistors. The one on the bottom of the two went up in smoke. Thanks for the schematic, looks similiar.