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Messages - danmahoney

#1
Thanks Ricky, I see where I`m going wrong with my logic on that one...
Hopefully I`ll have time over the next few days to do the work on the PF. I`ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again for all the great input, all the best!
Dan
#2
Thanks Ricky, appreciate you getting back to me!
My mini switches are DPDT so I`m thnking that (in theory) I should be able to wire leads from each side of my switch to the solder points for each of the LEDs on the underside of the PCB (without even lifting an end of the LEDs).
Does that make sense?
Dan
#3
Hey Ricky, I`ve had a chance to play through the PF at louder volumes and I don`t hate the hotter settings (volume at 3:00 or more, gain at around 12:00) for soloing. That`s with no boost engaged (I really need to get the pot in there to really see what change that makes first hand).

So what I`m thinking of doing, since I have to open the amp up and drill a hole in the bottom of the chasis for the pot anyway, is to drill another hole for a mini switch and wire that to the LEDs (like you did with one of your PFs). That way I can switch the LEDs in/out as I like and control boost levels with the pot, all from the outside of the amp.
Be a nice little hot rodded PF with both those options tweakable right on the underside of the chasis.

So I was hoping you could walk me through exactly which legs of the LEDs you lifted, where you wired them to the mini switch, and then where you went to ground from the mini switch. Any chance you remember?

Once again, really appreciate your input on all of this. Thanks!
Dan
#4
Quote from: Little Ricky on November 06, 2012, 04:18:18 PM
Late 60s Stones is about as dirty as I ever play.

Thanks for a great answer to my question Ricky! The late `60s Stones is a great point of reference. My rhythm sound is very Keith Richard and for solos I don`t really get crazier than Mick Taylor`s very natural sounding, bottleneck through tube amp (no pedals) tone.
I`m just getting to know my PF in rehearsals right now, but will be out Thurs (in a small bar) to test the amp at the small room levels that I will be using it at.
I`m still waiting for the 1M pot to arrive in the mail and when it gets here I`ll definitely mod the boost level.
I`ve found at low levels that I can get lots of great tone out of the amp, but I get the sense from turning it up here that it might get a little too 'hairy' for me if I use much gain at higher volumes. At low levels I would be fine with the LEDs still in there but I get the feeling (from your experience) that I`ll be happier with them out at gigging levels.
I`ll know more after Thurs but I`m sure I`ll try lifting them when I`ve got the amp open for the boost mod.
Thanks again for such a great, detailed answer. One quick question: does it matter which leg of the LEDs I lift (I plan on doing it that way in case I want to put them back at some point)?
Dan
#5
Quote from: Little Ricky on November 05, 2012, 05:12:10 PM
I would. You can do both mods right from the back of the pcb.

Ok thanks Ricky. Two quick questions: what did the mod change about your tone and did you just lift an end or completely remove the LEDs?
Dan
#6
Thanks guys, much appreciated!
Any opinions on doing the LED mod at the same time?
#7
Thanks Ricky, with your and Roly`s input it should be easy!
Will have to wait a few days for the pot to arrive but then I`m all set to go. Thanks for taking the time to shoot the pic!
I`ll let you know how it turns out, all the best.
Dan
#8
Quote from: Roly on October 27, 2012, 03:55:00 AM
Hi @danmahoney.

Repeating the circuit fragment from the previous page;



The copper PCB trace that connects C6 to pin 6 of IC1b, C7, R6, and Q1 is basically just a bit of wire.  You can pick up a connection to that anywhere along it on the copper side, or by soldering a wire to the lead of one of the components connected to it (such as R6), anywhere that is physically convenient.  This goes to one of the three tags on the pot.  Looking at the pot from behind with tags up it should go to the left side tag.

The centre tag on the pot similarly has to connect to the trace between Q1 and R8, again copper side or component side of the PCB, whichever gives the shortest and neatest wiring between board and the pot.

HTH

Thanks Roly, that helps a lot! I`ll probably go with trying to connect to a leg of the resistors. With R6 would I be connecting to the Q1 side (leg) of the resistor as I would with R8?
Dan
#9
Hi Guys,
   I`m not great at reading schematics and am still not all that clear on the mod. Can you walk me through some specifics, ie: Are you connecting wires from the 1Meg pot to the actual lugs of Q1, or are you connecting to the resistors (R8, R6)? If the resistors, are you on the Q1 side of the resistors and are you soldering to their contact point from the bottom or top of the PCB? Also could you let me know which lug on the pot goes to where exactly on  the PCB? Thanks so much, any help would be greatly appreciated!
Dan