On a zobel network does it matter what order the resistor and cap go? I see it both ways in schematics.
(Resistor first, cap to ground  or cap then resistor to ground).

Thanks.

I am old school. I always draw out my perfboard layouts on 10 squares to the inch graph paper. As far as ossilations and layout, I just try to keep the input and outputs separated as much as practical, and separate signal and power grounds
Anymore I just use "dead bug" or "ugly" construction for my one offs.

OK, so last night I am playing around with a chipamp (LM1875). I got the circuit done and needed to hook it up to a power supply. I had a power supply done up with a bridge rectifier and caps, but I couldn't find the center taped transformer in the garage. I wanted to test it so I hooked up an non center tapped transformer to the power supply board and it worked. ( Although the voltage were not equal, the negative was about 1.5 volts lower than the positive)
I tried it with the amp and the amp worked fine. Is there a downside to doing this? Could I just put some equal, high value resistors across the caps to equal out the voltage?

Thanks guys.  I thought about doing the 10 10ohms but it seemed a tad cumbersome.  I might try the 10 ohm + 100nf  or just wait untill I work up a Digikey order.

Thanks again

Forgive a newby if this is a painfully basic question.  I am wondering about zobel networks. 
First off, How big does the resistor have to be? I am working with the National lm1875. In the databook it looks like they just use a 1/4 watt 1 ohm resistor. In a schematic in Make magazine they use a 1 or 2 watt resistor.
The other thing I am wondering. Is there a formula for calculating the resistor and capactor value of these. For example I have no 1 ohms in my box but I have plenty of 10 ohms. Can I change the cap value and make this work?
Thanks for your time.

Does anyone have a good 12 volt amplifier IC that they have had good luck with. I have used the LM383 in the past and it was OK but I am looking for something cleaner for my lap steel. I would like to get at least 8 watts out of it.  Thanks

Thanks for the info.

I had never had any problem before with regular diodes.
(Once when making a ham radio reciever I had some noise from the power supply but that was caused by RF getting into the rectifier, not an issue here).

I have been checking out some chipamp sites and I noticed some of the builders use ultra fast diodes in the power supply. I think this is supposed to reduce noise. (not 100 % sure). Is this just hype or is there something there? I ask because I have been building and tearing apart guitar and hifi amps for years and they all seem to use pretty generic diodes in the power supply.
I am toying with the idea of putting a switch in the power supply to go back and forth between the two styles to see what kind of difference it makes. Has anyone ever done anything like this?
I am making this amp for my steel guitar and I want a CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN sound. A good steel amp is alot like a hifi amp. (with reverb!)
Thanks, this is a great forum.

I just wanted to say Hello, Name is Frank
I stumbled on this forum while looking for schematics, and finally decided to join up. Lots of good info here!!!  I have been playing with audio amp IC's for almost 20 years, building effects pedals, etc. Its a lot of fun and really a pretty cheap hobby. I mostly play lap steel.
I am thinking about  building an amp for my steel with the LM3875 or the LM3886 for my next project. Right now I am working on a theremin.
Hope to get to know you all better.