Thanks Loudthud, would I be correct in assuming those are for cleaning the signal? They all seem to near the inputs and outputs. And one is connected directly to the center lug of the pot.

BTW, the schematic you made is really helpful "dmeek!" It helps me get some of what is going on. I've never done a schematic before and I only am this far... Still wondering about watt and volt values for the disk caps labeled 104Z, with a single same size disk that is labeled .05uF at the input jack.

Quote from: g1 on February 17, 2023, 02:51:21 PMAre you making a parts list for the clone, or for the repair?
The fault should be located and replaced before any general part replacement.

Agreed, It was in a non working state, I believe due to a broken connection to the  pot center of first picture. Also I shorted a diode while probing and plugged in <arg!> 1N4003 is the diode, but again not sure about the power ratings I need for this little amp?

Should I choose .25, 2, or 3 watt ratings on the resistors when the color banding is correct? Also what is this part I don't know what to search for? it has 3 legs and labeled 2N3819 and I found a much different looking part on google.

Front and back of the board.

Working on repairing an old 1974 amp that "used to work." I've been noting and putting together a parts list. I've identified most of the components I think, but then I started reading the different ohm ratings of the resistors and got spooked I could choose wrong... The board has hand soldered traces, looks cool and I wanted to clone it.

I like that it holds and can run off 24-C batteries.