http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/noisy-cricket-mkii.html?m=1
need help wiring on this layout were this excess wire goes and position on pots and switch,. to jacks,. and i like not to sue a grit switch,what will ill omit on this lay out,.is sumthing wrong with this,. pls i need help guys :/
(http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc359/adr1anos/NoisyCricketII_Wiring.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/renny42905/Guitar%20Stuff/schem.png)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EAXZkwtXMr4/UF27t25BwdI/AAAAAAAACpU/tz7bKyNizEQ/s1600/Ruby+Amp+-+IvIark.png)
(http://schmidtmarcel.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/ruby_amp.png)
Hope these help. Google Images is your friend. :tu:
Just love when the layouts are in this nice color presentation. I know for me it helps to understand it all better, also make a learning tool as long as the builder studies both the color graphic style and schematic together.
@roly sir,can i just connect the two wire for the grit switch? i dont want to add switch on grit,. im a bit confused on the radioshack board and in the last image,.
If you don't want the Grit at all you can just leave the switch and its wires out. If you want Grit all the time you can just put a wire link in where the wires to the Grit switch come off your board.
The first image above is for the Noisy Cricket but I included the layouts for the Ruby because it is similar and I thought might be helpful, but if they are confusing just ignore them and concentrate on the first; that shows how the external components are wired up.
so does it mean if i dont use the grit switch ill just wire out pin 7 to groun or ill wire it with the 220uf caps? which is which? heheheh
i just figured it out how to connect them all,. i still have a problem,.when i connect all the jacks to test it i got a pumpboat sound when i strum the guitar,it will turn off i back off a little bit either of the 3 pots,.is there something wrong with my wiring or to caps and resistor?
Quote from: nikkram17i got a pumpboat sound
Very apt. We call this "motorboating" because of the putt putt sound. This is low frequency instability and looking at;
http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/projects/bbp_NoisyCricket_Rev_1_1.pdf
(http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/projects/bbp_NoisyCricket_Rev_1_1.pdf)
...I notice that a very important component has been omitted. You should add an electrolytic cap of around 100-220uF, 9V or higher, across the power supply pins of the LM386, pins 4 (ground) and 6 (+ve supply) taking care to get its polarity the right way around. This is called a "bypass cap" and something similar is needed in
all amplifiers to prevent instability. {Naughty Beavis etc}.
If you don't want the Grit function simply omit the switch. Don't worry about the cap if you have already fitted it, without the switch it will have no effect.
im following the 1st image, pins 3 nd 4 are connected,. is it ok if i put the caps there? do i need to disconnect them to put the caps in pin 4? or as is? ill just connect from ground connecting to the link that goes to the LED? and last thing,is the positive charge og my caps should be connected to pin 6? or in pin 4 area? :/
Cap -ve to ground/battery -ve. Cap +ve to +9V supply. As close to the chip amp as physically comfortable.
so you mean sir that only 1 cap ill add? the + side of the cap shall be positioned to to red wire of the supply and the - to ground? not to the pin? im confused :( i made a quick illustration on it , tell me which is correct sir.. i put some lines in the layout..
sorry for the late reply.. kinda busy on work.
thnks sir
As it seems to have low frequency instability it requires a bypass cap somewhere across the power supply. The best place to put this is right at the chip amp power and ground pins, but seeing that you have already built it just try to get it as close to the chip amp as you comfortably can, but its exact position, like its value, shouldn't be too critical.
I'm a bit confused about which layout you are actually using. Cap C1 should be the cap in question, but it isn't shown on the circuits I was looking at. While it should work where you have drawn it, it would be better to place it on the amp side of the power switch rather than then battery side. If you already have C1 in your build you should check that it is actually connected, no dry solder joints or missing links.
HTH
i followed the 1st layout you posted..
i have checked it correctly, i even replaced it with another caps thinking i might burned it while soldering.. but still i have that silly motorboat sound..hehe
Ah. Can you post a photo or two of your build?
here is my mess sir.. heheh :cheesy:
Well I'm still a bit confused because you haven't followed the layout exactly, in particular there seem to be some ground links missing to the left of the chip, and you seem to have added a couple of extra rows, specifically "E" and "Z", so it's a bit hard to work out what is going on.
Can we have a pic of the copper side please? In the meantime you could check with your ohmmeter between battery negative and all the places it is supposed to go just to be sure they are all actually grounded (e.g. pin 3).
actually sir i didnt add an entire row,.i just put some wire to transfer my connection for the speakers output and gain knobs since im out of spot to solder them,.im not using a stripboard,.its a perfboard,.
regarding the ohmeter,iv checked it and its properly grounded,. sorry for the confusion sir,. hehe