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Hi! A couple of questions about the Honey Amp

Started by krunssg2w, May 31, 2022, 12:29:31 PM

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krunssg2w

Hey! I'm a little late to the game, but started building out my Honey Amp PCB this past weekend. My intent is to use an 8 ohm speaker from an old Fender Champion 30 amp and likely power it with a 12V wall wart. I am building the "clean buffer" version, as I will be using this amp mostly to bench-test guitar pedals (a new hobby!)

My questions for the clean buffer build are:

1. C0 is shown on the schematic as 22pF. Does the type of capacitor matter? I assume any ceramic disc, MLCC, or box film cap would work, but wanted to check. I have a 22pF MLCC on hand and plan to use that.

2. The third line of the clean buffer instructions says "Attach C3 input to C2 + pad. [Audio jack] Input + will now need to be connected to pin 2 of RV1."

Can I get some clarification on these instructions? For the second part, it looks like the easiest solution is to solder a jumper between pads 3 and 2 of RV1?

I'm not sure about the first part -- C3 is soldered in place, correct? And I guess a jumper on the underside of the PCB between the pad of C3 closest to C0, and the C2 + pad? It's not to the pad of C3 closest to C7, correct?

3. Unrelated to the clean buffer alterations, what is the best way to mount the PCB in an enclosure? I will likely use PCB-mounted jacks for J2 and J3, but use wiring to remotely mount the Vol and Tone knobs. What's the best way to secure the PCB to allow access to the aux and headphone jacks?

Many thanks!
Ken

krunssg2w

#1
A follow up for question three above. If I decide to remote mount the AUX in and headphone jacks, what are the specs for the non-PCB versions of those jacks? On Digi-Key (for example) I see many jacks with 2, 3, 4, and 5 contacts for mono, stereo, TRS, TRRS, TRRRS. It's confusing  :P

It would be nice to use this so headphones have both 1/8" and 1/4" support -- https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-sine-systems-corp/ACJS-MHD985/10443364, but I'm not sure how to wire it up.

As far as the AUX in is concerned should that be stereo 3-pin connector?

Links to recommended chassis-mount jacks on Mouser, Digikey, or Jameco, etc would be great!

Thank you!
Ken

joecool85

#2
Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:29:31 PMHey! I'm a little late to the game, but started building out my Honey Amp PCB this past weekend. My intent is to use an 8 ohm speaker from an old Fender Champion 30 amp and likely power it with a 12V wall wart. I am building the "clean buffer" version, as I will be using this amp mostly to bench-test guitar pedals (a new hobby!)

My questions for the clean buffer build are:

1. C0 is shown on the schematic as 22pF. Does the type of capacitor matter? I assume any ceramic disc, MLCC, or box film cap would work, but wanted to check. I have a 22pF MLCC on hand and plan to use that.

2. The third line of the clean buffer instructions says "Attach C3 input to C2 + pad. [Audio jack] Input + will now need to be connected to pin 2 of RV1."

Can I get some clarification on these instructions? For the second part, it looks like the easiest solution is to solder a jumper between pads 3 and 2 of RV1?

I'm not sure about the first part -- C3 is soldered in place, correct? And I guess a jumper on the underside of the PCB between the pad of C3 closest to C0, and the C2 + pad? It's not to the pad of C3 closest to C7, correct?

3. Unrelated to the clean buffer alterations, what is the best way to mount the PCB in an enclosure? I will likely use PCB-mounted jacks for J2 and J3, but use wiring to remotely mount the Vol and Tone knobs. What's the best way to secure the PCB to allow access to the aux and headphone jacks?

Many thanks!
Ken


Awesome that you're building the clean buffer version.  This version uses the clean buffer of the Crybaby wah wah pedal from Dunlop and sounds really great.

1.  Yes, any 22pF capacitor is fine to use.

2. For C3, you will use the pad closest to C7 and the pad of C2 with the + on it.  Basically you are turning C3 90 degrees counter clockwise from where it is silk screened on the board.  If you have already soldered C3 in the stock location, you will need to remove, rotate by 90 degrees, and resolder.

For the second part, take the positive (tip of guitar plug) on the input jack and wire it directly to pin 2 on the board.  This will send it straight through to the circuit, pin 3 will be completely disconnected and of no use because you aren't installing a gain control.  No jumper required.

3. I have always mounted the board by the onboard potentiometers I spec with the kit.  Past that, you could use PCB edge mounts like these: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1116
Life is what you make it.
Still rockin' the Dean Markley K-20X
thatraymond.com

joecool85

Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:50:25 PMA follow up for question three above. If I decide to remote mount the AUX in and headphone jacks, what are the specs for the non-PCB versions of those jacks? On Digi-Key (for example) I see many jacks with 2, 3, 4, and 5 contacts for mono, stereo, TRS, TRRS, TRRRS. It's confusing  :P

It would be nice to use this so headphones have both 1/8" and 1/4" support -- https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-sine-systems-corp/ACJS-MHD985/10443364, but I'm not sure how to wire it up.

As far as the AUX in is concerned should that be stereo 3-pin connector?

Links to recommended chassis-mount jacks on Mouser, Digikey, or Jameco, etc would be great!

Thank you!
Ken

For the aux input jack you will want a non-switched TRS (standard 3 pin stereo jack).

For the headphone jack you will want a TRS with switched pins on tip and ring.  This makes it a 5 pin jack.  When you don't have anything plugged in, the switches are closed and pass signal onto the speaker.  When you plug headphones in, it opens those switches and the signal goes to the headphones.

As for links, this is what I use for the kit for aux input: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Devices/SJ1-3523NG?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhZ3BJrEKA2ZtL3QjeZizhqabaSR3Zt9OM%252BTMR%2FuSuQ3A%3D%3D

And for chassis mount, this would work well: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/35PRM3?qs=Mv7BduZupUiFtp5UCPt0Jw%3D%3D

For the headphone jacks I use these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Devices/SJ1-3525NG-GR?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugo%2F194Ni2mldtHbvbWEI5Gmsq5myxkxhxCHzvQ6NSWVw%3D%3D

And something like this would work well for panel mount in 1/4" (use an adapter to step down to 1/8"): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Audio/ACJS-MIV-5?qs=t8%2F5FiDdxGbV%2FTm03ByMkg%3D%3D

These are listed as 5 position sometimes, but really they are 3 position jacks with 2 poles for the switches.

Hope this helps!
Life is what you make it.
Still rockin' the Dean Markley K-20X
thatraymond.com

krunssg2w

Super info, thanks! I've made the mods as you suggested -- desoldering C3 and turning as described (clever PCB layout!) and wiring the input jack to pin 2

I ordered a couple different jacks and am waiting for them, and the pcb mounting hardware, to arrive. Mouser actually resells the adafruit PCB mounts, which is convenient. My PCB is a mess of wires, haha.