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Messages - pinkjimiphoton

i love the way your mind works, mike!
i may give that a shot, soon, hopefully... finally gotta production batch of pedals i gotta get done first tho.
it should work fine that way i'd imagine. i'll definitely try it and letcha know, bro!
thanks for all you do, man. its seriously appreciated!

i just put the schematic you made for the 30 watter on the marshall forum. you just helped a lot of people out, bro... thank you!
here's more pics, of the trace side of the board.
i DID do some mods to this... 10,000uf power supply filters, and 220uf filters for the preamp instead of 100uf. that made it a bit quieter, and more robust. above 220uf and it gets kinda unstable, it needs a little sag to sound best, and above that too much bass leaks into the reverb and makes it so your attacks get kinda "pingy".

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tassieviking, just measured the dcr for the onboard reverb, input reads 32r, output 200r

pics of trace side coming soon

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i ended up using copper foil shielding tape for a front panel.
thanks for all this, michael!!

i got dimensions for the 3005 reverb for you...

chassis is 12 7/8 long, 2 3/8 high and 6 7/8 deep

board is 10 wide by 5 3/8 deep, sits 7/16 up from the chassis

input jack is 1 1/8 from left, gain knob is 1 from that.
all knobs are 1 1/8 spaced, line out is 1 1/8 from reverb knob, hp jack is 7/8

gotta upload some pics, will post soon

the new amp is totally clean and appears original
Quote from: joecool85 on March 24, 2022, 05:17:19 PM
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on March 24, 2022, 04:20:55 PMapparently admin has crippled my ability to upload files. sorry man. i'll try and upload them on diystomps or something.

i guess i did something wrong? wtf?

Nothing done wrong, we updated to SMF 2.1.1 and lost certain functionality.  I'm looking at this now.  Sorry for the trouble!

thanks joecool!
i was afraid i angered the forum gods or something!!

btw.... i think this is the stuff i'm gonna go with for the front plate on the amp. gold or rose sparkle, not sure which yet... they do engraving and everything if you need it, too.

i'm LOVING this little amp. the whole thing in the chassis only weighs about 4 lbs!
here's the measurements for the lead 12 head,
pics coming. i did NOT pull the pcb, if you need that, let me know

the chassis is 12 13/16 long x 2.5 high by 6.75 deep

the pcb is 9.5 x 4, and sits a half inch above the chassis

j 1 center sits 9/16 from the left side of the board, j 2 center is 1 inch from j1 center
both jacks sit 14/16 above the chassis <so i guess subtract the 1/16th for the thickness of the chassis and then another 1/2 for actual height>

pots evenly spaced from jacks, 1 7/16 apart for all pots, line out also

jacks all read 1 inch up from bottom of chassis

apparently admin has crippled my ability to upload files. sorry man. i'll try and upload them on diystomps or something.

i guess i did something wrong? wtf?
Quote from: Tassieviking on March 24, 2022, 11:51:23 AMSound like your back is the opposite to mine, my vertebrae between my shoulder blades have fused together to one solid lump of bone, and it tries to do that all over the place.

owwww... i wish mine would fuse there, t8/9/10 have been busted 3 times now. i saw a surgeon about getting fusion, they said too much damage to risk any screws.  if i cough or sneeze unexpectedly, could turn catastrophic. at the least, its very painful. in a way, i'm lucky i've lost a lot of feeling, or i'd be in agony half the time.

QuoteSoft connective tissue like ligaments and tendons start turning into bone, if my hole spine fuses and I fall it will snap.
To be honest I hate taking oxy, but I use it practically every day when I go to bed.
I never get a buzz from the oxy, not even when they fed me 32 tablets in 20 hours in hospital. If it is really needed for pain it does not give you a high, or maybe the pain was just so bad I didn't notice.

its true. if you're in pain, you don't catch any kind of buzz. i've found the same personally, as have many friends and contacts. its amazing how misconstrued people in pain are, they treat us like junkies, when nothing could be further from the truth. most folks that have to take this crap wish we didn't have to, and that's a fact. if i were a praying man, i'd pray you find some relief, best i can do is send love and healing vibes. people should thank their lucky stars if they don't ever get to know pain intimately, for sure.

QuoteI have nearly finished the PCB now, just tidying up, then I will post it here for others to use if they want to.
I will make a different one later a lot smaller, with the sockets off the PCB, and maybe add an effects loop and reverb on the PCB.

i like that idea. kinda surprised you didn't go with a dual-mount for the darlingtons that would fit the more modern q's like you had done previously. if it had pads for either, it may make it more versatile, but it may just be me, cuz i'm really just an egg with amps.
the paramix circuit worked out great in the 12 watt with reverb! ;) relatively simple design, could be improved upon, i think it works better than the "stock" marshall one in this series of amps.
the thread for what i did is here on

this one's getting it, too, but i'll be adding the series as well as the paraloop functions this time. i'd LIKE to add a spring reverb, too, but, may be a bit above my paygrade. been thinking of a belton brick based reverb, which would be a lot easier to do than a traditional spring one.

QuoteBut before I make this one smaller I will make one up for the Marshall 12 watt reverb
with an effects loop, I will combine all the 12 watt circuits I can find and add them all on one PCB, then just add the components you need for the one you want to build.
I will also make the power amp a mix of the 12 watt and the 30 watt one, again just use the right components for what you want.

if ya look, the 12 watt and 30 watt are pretty much identical, outside of speaker load! ;) 16 ohms, ya got the 12 watt, 8 ohms, the 20 watt "master lead" and 4 ohms, the 5010 lol...they're REAL close other than the preamps and drivers being slightly different. so that is a BANGIN' idea, bro!

QuoteJimiphoton, you wouldn't have the measurements for the 12 watt amp would you ?
I would be after the spacing of the pots and pots to jacks.


i DO, in fact! i got the 12 watt with reverb combo, which is similar but slightly different to the 12 watt headpiece in the micro stack.... and i have that too. do you need both, michael?
i think they're slightly different. i can get you pics, measurements, anything you need, just say the word, bro!

i will measure both today for you and post once i'm a bit more conscious. these really are my fav amps of all time, its funny, i can get more out of one of these weird little marshalls than i used to get with a 90 lb pedalboard <bernice, she's so damn big she has her own area code> and a *s!!t* load of outboard gear i used to haul. i was a fuzzface into a overdrive into a fender guy. i can get the same sound basically with the marshall and a guitar... usually a les paul or bmg red special, which is the one guitar to really rule them all. ever try one? they're nuts. i can get literally ANY guitar tone out of that thing... the on/off and phase switch for each pup really works, and you can do some crazy stuff with it... guitar feeding back too much? reverse the phase of the pickups, and the speakers suck instead of blow... not feeding back enough? reverse 'em and the guitar screams like a banshee. i love that thing!

anyways, gotta take care of a bunch of crud today, gotta gig tonite, but will try and get them measurements for you today.
stay tuned bro ;)
that would be hip!

alright, i got measurements for add to those ya already had.
the input jacks center is 1" from the bottom of the chassis.
the standoff in the middle of the board is 1/2" high, and exactly at 7", the middle of the board.

from left of pcb, spacing for pots
3 5/16"
5 1/16"
6 5/16"
8 1/16"
9 5/16"
this gets weird.. 10 13/16", i have to have f'd that up somehow.
i used one of them transparent plastic rulers. the spacing looks the same, so i'd imagine it should be symetrical across.
sorry man. glaucoma sucks, makes it hard to see much fine detail.
di/headphone out jack is located 1 5/16" to the right of center of presence pot, and 13 16ths above the bottom of the chassis... slightly different from the input jacks height.

hope that helps. put the top on, and a handle i had kicking around. it's like, maybe a 3 or 4 lb 30 watt amp head this way. perfect for my old guy back ;)
hahahah.... i took a few hours yesterday.

measured the living f!!* out of everything. center punched all the holes in the chassis.
drilled 'em all. somehow f'd up the line out/headphone jack hole.

so i'm the wrong guy to supply that info unfortunately. my ruler does centimeters with millimeter divisions. some of the measurements are way off trying to go to the centers of the pots, and seems to land in between some of the mm' markings.

but i DID write it down. beginning to think it may be easier to just measure from pin 1 to pin 2 of each of the pots and have you add that measurement to the ones i already posted.
regardless, the notes are on my bench; i worked til 3 am on the dang thing last nite and forgot to bring them up.

i mounted everything in the new chassis despite the one hole being off, mounted the transformer, switch, output jacks etc. wired it all up properly, brought it up on my variac,
and of COURSE, NOW its not working, tho it was on my bench... turns out the primary fuse had blown. so i replaced it, brought it back up again, this time i got a loud hum. appears one of the 2200u caps solder joint failed. so i gotta take the whole mess apart again and reflow that with some fresh solder.

i DID go up to 470u for the preamp filter caps to try and lower the noise a bit, the preamp seems fine, the hum is in the power supply cuz none of the knobs have any effect.

joy!! ;)

but it will be fine once i figure out my mistake and fix it. i'll get pics. for the most part, looks pretty good. i'm gonna fudge and make a plexi front panel for it to hide my shame on the one hole ;) .... eventually. ;)

sorry to hear about your health probs, i share them and some others, its definitely no fun bro. broke my back the last time <of 3 so far, knock on my dumb head> in 89, so if i cough or sneeze my spine tends to dislocate right between my shoulderblades, which makes life extremely problematic at times. i keep trying to live, but its kinda like standing in ice water up to my nippiles. partial paralysis is weird. i can walk and stand, but i can't really FEEL anything anymore. creepy. i quit taking the drugs they used to offer about 5 years ago. i found that the pain always seemed to get most unbearable near dosage times, and did a little research and discovered the damn hydrocodone they gave me actually could CAUSE joint pain, and i have enough, already, thanks.
replaced it with weed and aspirin. learned to deal with it. most days, i can.

btw... the mounting screw at the back of the board is exactly at 7 inches, and is the star ground for the power amp, so i guess its important ;)

also, i offset my board slightly, cuz i used a 17x8x3" chassis... so the measurements for my front panel are moved to the right a little. i gotta "nibbler" tool and used it the first time yesterday... so i ended up using a real lit up marshall power switch, and a proper socket for the mains wire. kinda neat to be able to make metal chip away like that ;)

stoked to try and help ya make this project a reality... i'd love to order a couple boards and build one from scratch.

this one will be being modified some, i think. definitely gonna put an fx loop in it, maybe add reverb too if i can figure out a way to build the send/return amps on vero... or i may just go with a belton brick, too, which would be literally stupid easy. gotta have reverb, and the circuit used in the reverb version of this circuit ain't it. just not well done.

anyways... more later, bro. thank you for all you've done!

Quote from: Tassieviking on March 22, 2022, 11:17:16 AM
I am a bit wary as well on any stress put on solder points, like pushing plugs in /out.
If I use a jack on a PCB it will always be a stereo switching jack socket with 6 pins for the most strength.

i do the same generally, tho often marshall uses the 4 pin mono ones. it doesn't matter really when ya get some guy plugging in and twisting around the plug, it's gonna

I made up draft 5 of the schematic, we will se how we go this time.
pinkjimiphoton, I am not sure what you meant with the measurements on the Jack Sockets.
I think you left a message on the DIYstompboxes forum that the measurements were to a pin and not the center of the socket.
I am posting a picture with measurements, If you could write on the picture and return it I can get that fixed up as well.

yes, i just measured to pin one on each pot, i thought it may be easier with the 22mm pots that are stock. i've never done this kinda stuff like this, so sorry for being hard to understand. will get you measurements when i get back to my bench, today's the day i recap and begin mounting it in its new chassis.
all the pots are the same distance from each other, and each pin 1 is 1.5 inches apart with the pots.

I have the PCB nearly finished apart from moving the Jack Sockets to the final place.
The strange footprint for the Tantalum caps is one I made up when I did the Sunn Beta board for myself.
Its so I could use Electrolytics, Tantalum, WIMA Box caps where the 2uF electrolytics were on the original PCB.

i like that idea, makes sense. i generally work with what i have in my parts drawers, and rarely ever use tantalums for anything. i prefer mcc's in most cases, and use 'em up to 10uf where i can.


One more thing, the hole for the spacer between the heatsinks, do we want that in the same location as the original ?

seems to be the half way point on the board,  which works out ok. maybe better to put one on each corner for stability, but i don't know it that's really necessary.

I would need the measurements for that as well.
The only tracks on the top of the PCB are on the TO-3 transistor, the original did not have any, they relied on the power going through the screws.
There are also tracks on the fuse holders on the top, but they can be on the bottom, it's just the way I made the footprints.

i think the TO-3 transistors are easier to use and come by, but their heat sinking may be a little more difficult.... they should definitely be easier to find than the stock ones.
at first i thought them screws were supposed to be soldered to the pads on the board bottom.... umm... don't do that. ;)

the fuse holders being on top are good imho, tho i still prefer the old school panel mount ones for convenience sake.  i've found the diode bridge seems to work like a fuse in this circuit ;) not reccomended, fuses are more convenient, for sure.

You can make it a one sided board if someone wants to etch one, just leave out the tracks between the screws on the TO-3's like Marshall did.

i'd have to get one etched somewhere one way or the other, and it may be above my present paygrade. i had just seen people asking for a schematic for this beast, which was why i was asking if there was one... thanks to you, Tassieviking, there is one now.
i'm just glad i could help a little in a small way.

i will get measurements when i get a chance. stay tuned!
too much crap on my bench. yes, i AM brIAn dead. :duh :duh :duh

somehow i was confusing myself. pin 1 of gain r4 and c1 in parallel at pin 3 of ic, other side to c2 to pin 7.

rev 3 is the one. sorry for the confusion. :o

2 marshalls, a tube works head, my ps systems power tool and a bx13 24 pin to 13 pin midi guitar adapter kinda all going at once....
plus my day gig builds...

yikes!  8|
i think i'm wrong, and rob is right, rev 3 is the proper one.
i haven't beeped it yet, but here's the connections, and tho i got r4 and c1 being in parallel right, it appears i dropped the ball, so my bad!