Forgot to mention that I also like that I can run my Randall Commander head through the power-in of the Classic VT. Makes the Randall sound great with that tube power section.

The earlier versions had "tremolo" but later versions had "phase." You can kind of make the phase sound like tremolo at the right settings. Which does yours have?

Distortion channel at low volumes isn't all that but when the volume is up and your pushing the power tubes, it sounds really good.

If you haven't already considered it, think about upgrading the stock speakers. It will make a HUGE difference. I started with two WGS Vet 30s and was really amazed at the difference. Then swapped out one of the Vet 30s for a WGS Reaper 30 watt and it gave it a bit more of a vintage sound with more speaker breakup from the Reaper. Again, great sounding just different.

The current Eminence Swamp Thang / Vet 30 combo is just brutal. Super tight low-end resonance you really feel in the bones with no mush whatsoever still plenty of mid and sparkle and a little breakup from the Vet 30 when pushed.

I have another Swamp Thang I may put in there but that may make it more of a bass amp than a guitar amp! But would sound AWESOME!

:dbtu:

Man, that looks good....

But it says they don't sell the parts/kits anymore?

I have a 79 Peavey Classic VT 212 with phaser with original footswitch and cover. <3)

I personally think it is a great amp for what you can get them for. I bought mine from a local guy about a year ago super cheap because it wasn't sounding great at the time but I put Winged C 6L6 tubes in it, had a tech check it out and replace filter caps and some other minor worn circuitry bits and basically brought it back up to new specs.

It also currently has an Eminence Swamp Thang and WGS Vet 30 in it and it sounds GREAT!  :dbtu:

Fixed up right, it is a reliable and awesome-sounding amp for not much $$- and one that nobody will try to steal from you.  :lmao:

Well, seems like this particular string tops is $400 long but likely maybe only up to about $200 if that.

Sounds like worst-case scenario would be that I have to replace every part and if those parts all total wouldn't be more than $300 and if I can do it myself, I would have a practically new amp when done that I might be able to sell close to cost. That's really what I was needing to know... what the worst case might be.

I'm also actually looking for a "project" amp. Something relatively simple. I also dig these old small vintage amps. So in my case the added value is in the kind of amp it is and that I could probably fix it myself and learn a lot in the process.

I'll go take a look at it. Thanks for the advice guys!

I have an opportunity to get a Gibson Skylark GA-5T with a blown transformer locally for $100 or maybe less. Seller says the transformer *may* be all that is wrong with it but it may not. He says he can't be sure if anything else is wrong but he knows for sure the transformer is toast. If that is all that is wrong with it, I can surely replace the transformer myself.

I've read pretty good things about these amps and have seen them listed in GC used inventory for as little as $300 and as much as $500. I'd like to have a cool old vintage tube amp and one that I might be able to fix-up myself inexpensively then have some opportunity to sell for at least what I put into it. But I don't want to get stuck with something that could cost $300 or more just to get it working.

Any advice? Is it a good gamble or should I pass?

I'm going to look at it Monday.

Thanks.

More great info guys! Thanks!

There doesn't seem to be any significant hum or noise so I guess these caps are still pretty good. But I'll probably change them out anyway, especially since I plan to keep it.

Thanks again guys! You're the best!

I heard that man!

At least for now, the Randall isn't my main gigging amp but that may change after it proves itself repaired because it really sounds great and especially sounds good with the pedals I have- at least compared to some of my other amps. And it's got that KILLER on-board tremolo!

My thinking right now is to have the Randall on hand as backup for the L5 or Peavey. If either of those go down, I can run the Randall through their speakers. That way I don't have two 212 combos to lug around but still have a good backup plan with plenty of juice and things stay fairly simple.

Of course I need to be sure it is going to work if I NEED a backup so a few more weeks of no probs and I'll be comfortable. 

Also, does replacing old filter caps that aren't necessarily "bad" have any potential positive effect on the tone of the amp? Sort of like a tone tune-up? Will it make the tone brighter/stronger/punchier/more resonant, etc... Or is it one of those things where it is either pretty much working or it's not?

I can't help but think after running through the power amps of the L5 and Peavey (which I had a local shop overhaul [before I found this forum]- has new filter caps and a few other bits) that it might benefit tonally from some new replacement parts? It might be worth it because it looks like a pretty straight-forward job that I could do myself (with your-all's guidance of course).

I don't know... Maybe I just I need a fixing fix.  :lmao:

Thanks!

Well, I jammed hard on it a few more times today and clean as a whistle.

Put it back together and jammed some more and still good.

Tested a total of about half/dozen times after solder job and no problems. Before it would have farted out every time, especially at the higher volumes I knew to be sure and test it at.

Also ran the preamp through the power amp of my Lab Series L5 and it really sounds good there too. Again I think better than the head to cab alone.

Anyway, I'm keeping my fingers crossed and will feel really good after a few weeks or so without incident.

This sure has been fun and educational for me. Thank you DrGonz and Roly for your help on this. I could not have done it without you! Bless you and bless this forum!

Now I gotta find something else that needs fixing....  :lmao:

Chewy

Just jammed on it some more and still good.

Gonna give it several more days of periodic blasting just to make sure before I put it back together.

Be nice if it wasn't the filter cap but wouldn't hurt to replace them if it is. If they are original they are 35 years old!

Either way, I'm glad we seem to have zeroed in on the problem. 

Thanks!

Ok-

I clipped the three wires at the solder joint, removed existing solder and cleaned the tip of the connector. Stripped the wires and reconnected to tip of the filter cap connector and resoldered. It's about as clean a connection as I know how to make.

Played it for a while at high volumes and no trace of cutting out. I'll leave it open and test from cold to hot several times over the next few days. It may still yet be the lug connection inside the filter cap and my fooling with it made it have a good temporary connection so I'm not totally ready to say it's fixed but I am pretty sure at least the problem lies here with this filter cap and/or connections to it.

It doesn't look like the lug comes out of the filter cap- should it?. If it is the lug, I'm guessing new filter cap? Or maybe both filter caps for good measure?

Thanks guys!

OK- There are three terminating points from that joint. Two to the PCB board and one to the other filter cap. Readings at all points read below 0 ohms.

My meter does not have a continuity setting.

I checked the filter cap connections and while the amp was off, the needle did go slightly into negative territory when I touched the connection for the red wire. It didn't seem to do anything when touched to the black.

I also checked the other filter cap and same for the black but it went slightly into positive territory when I touched to the connection for the red wire. I guess this is normal?

I wiggled the lug but didn't cut out.

I'll resolder that connection and report back.

Thanks guys!

Just played it some more and for a good while at high volumes and it NEVER cut out. It also sounded "punchier" it seemed. Maybe my imagination.

Also- I think the "hum" was associated with my guitar being too close to the amp while I was testing it. I was wearing it while testing so it was only inches from the transformer at times.

At least I hope that's all it was.

OK- I think I found something... :dbtu:

I connected the multimeter as described then plugged in and turned on and the needle didn't move at all.

I played at volume set at 2 (highest so far lol) and it cut out right away. I hadn't played the amp for several days. Noticed the meter needle still did not move on either 10 or 250 settings.

This time it stayed cut out so I had a constant farty signal. While trilling on the guitar with my left hand to maintain the signal, I poked around again with the wooden kabbob skewer with my right hand. When I pressed on (what I believe is) the negative connection of one of the filter caps, it stopped cutting out right away. It went to a clean signal and I could not get it to fart out again after playing for several more minutes and while pressing and prodding the connections of this filter cap.

Solders look OK to me but maybe something needs cleaning or resoldering or possibly replacing?

Picture of the location marked by kabbob skewer of what I think is a bad connection and at this point the most likely cause of farting is attached.