Just a tip about EAGLE pad size:
Use DRC to alter the pad size AFTER you have done the layout. Click DRC icon then in sizes tab (or restring tab? Sorry I forget which one) increase minimum size to about 17-20 mil. Click apply to see the magic happens.

I'm curious about KiCad, so I'm downloading it now. Thanks Phatt for mentioning it. :tu:

For 6 pcs production I suggest you try the hand drawing method or the toner transfer method (Is this the right term?). It's fairly easy for a newbie like me, and FAR cheaper than ordering. Try it and you won't order anymore. Just remember about the safety factor: safety googles, rubber gloves, air circulation, waste treatment.

Note:

• If you don't have laser printer or magazine paper, you can print your layout on ordinary paper then photocopy it on the thinnest paper available (60 g/m2 will do). I use XEROX photocopier with darkest setting for best result.
• Always remember to balance between your copper trace and the spacing between traces for easy transfer. I use 0.05" for copper trace width.

Happy etching!!! :tu:

Edit: After a quick look, IMHO your traces are too thin. Try 0.05". As for the pad size, try my tips. It's only a few clicks away. Try this tutorial to add a ground plane: http://www.muzique.com/schem/eagle.htm. At least it will speed up the etching process. You also have untraced connection between R9 and R7 (See that yellow line?). I suggest to bevel / chamfer or round / fillet your traces for better electron flow. There are buttons to activate them when tracing. They're just above the drawing panel.

For those who are frustrated with EAGLE's component library (like me), try Gauss Markov's library: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/software/eagle/eagle-2-libraries/. A lot easier to use.

For more tips: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/software/eagle-cad/.

Hope that helps.

Thank you all for the replies. This forum really rocks!! TEN THUMBS UP!!! :dbtu:  :dbtu:  :dbtu:  :dbtu:  :dbtu:

I am planning to add Condor cab sim (http://www.runoffgroove.com/condor.html) to my amp. Obviously my amp's treble content needs to be cut away. :trouble

Where should I add it?

My amp's current layout:
jfet input buffer --> preamp --> MIK 386 power amp --> headphone out --> speaker out
(Little Rebel has send-return feature and I implemented it in my amp)

Which one is correct?
jfet input buffer --> preamp --> Condor --> MIK 386 power amp --> headphone out --> speaker out
OR
jfet input buffer --> preamp --> MIK 386 power amp --> Condor --> headphone out --> speaker out
OR
Should I use it like a stompbox (between guitar and amp)?

Is the jfet amplifier stage in Condor really needed? Can I eliminate it and use the schematic starting for 47n cap? My problem is I can't find J201 / MPF102 / 2N5457. The only jfet I can find is 2N3819 and I had a very disappointing experience with it when I built Thor. Very faaaar away from high gain. Or should I leave it intact (and try it with 2N3819)?

If I don't need Condor's volume control, can I just eliminate it or should I replace it with a 10K resistor to ground?

(Oops, sorry if I ask too many questions...)

Regards,

newbiediy

I use a cheap 6" 8ohm 20W speaker. Its brand is ACR. I think this is the spec: http://www.acrspeaker.com/productdetail.php?categ=K12&idproduct=12

Not very ideal for guitar speaker, but it is better sounding and cheaper than woofer type speaker I tried earlier. Any suggestion on the speaker type to improve sound? Please don't suggest Celestion, Eminence, or other branded guitar speaker. They are waaaaayyy too expensive for me. 5" - 6" is preferred because I made my box based on that sizes.

One more question. I added this jfet input buffer in front of the Little Rebel schematic: http://www.muzique.com/lab/buffers.htm
At first I used the basic common drain schematic (the 1st one). Then I tried to improve it (as suggested by the 2nd schematic) by connecting R1 (1M) to 4.5V instead of ground. I got better clean sound indeed...
Then I tried connecting R1 to ground and 4.5V back and forth via a switch to compare the sound. Not for long I got a bonus feature on my amp: FM RADIO RECEIVER!!! 
And then I noticed when I connected R1 to 4.5V, both 386 (I use MIK 386) felt very hot. So I decided to connect R1 to ground.
And the question is: What was wrong? I have no electronic background and this is my 3rd project after the infamous Little Gem and Ruby. Any good (not too) technical explanation would be very appreciated.

Hi there...

I'm a newbie both in this awesome forum and in electronics. I need your opinion about my homemade amp.
It is basically a Little Rebel with jfet input buffer for better "clean" sound (not "true" clean as there is always some amount of distortion).

A "demo" video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BO4j-4KXXs (sorry about the bad playing). 

Any comment or suggestion will be VERY appreciated.