Reverb tank into Squier 15 SS amp

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
I am ordering a Accutronics Reverb tank today. It will be new so there should be no problems with that however, the transistors 2SC1815 on the Mouser website come up as obsolete. Now what ?

[Enzo]

Well, my suggestion was for 2SC1815, not 1851.  And it was just a general purpose transistor I happen to stock. 

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
I mistaken 2SC1815 is what I actually intended type. I will be going to our local electronics supplier today to see  what he can come up with.
The 2SC1815 is listed as obsolete by Mouser.
Thank you.

[galaxiex]

Hello,
I mistaken 2SC1815 is what I actually intended type. I will be going to our local electronics supplier today to see  what he can come up with.
The 2SC1815 is listed as obsolete by Mouser.
Thank you.

DigiKey has them.

http://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=2SC1815&from=home

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Yes DigiKey does have them, price less than $1.00, Shipping $8.00. I am working on a budget amp on an economy budget. That is one of the things that infuriate me, there low prices, and the massive shipping costs.
Thank you for your effort, but I have to look locally.

[Enzo]

Any small signal transistopr NPN will worl, just watch voltage to fit within power supply.

[Den.]

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170202133438&SearchText=2SC1815

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Yeah!!! Today I got a D313 transistor. It came from our local audio electrical supply. He didn't have the (2) 2SC1815's I needed. He wanted to sell me a substitute but I wanted the exact part because I am following the schematic exactly and, I do not want any variables to pop up.
Still waiting on the reverb tank, should be here any day.

[Enzo]

Any similar spec part will work, this is just a small guitar amp, not precision lab gear.

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Be that as it may, to have the exact parts will give me a better chance of the whole circuit working.
I know you are probably right however, I do not know which piece would be compatible and if not why. Given that I would be building a problem into it as opposed to improving upon it.
I know it seems simple to you but to me its step by step until the results are achieved.
I look at it as rebuilding an engine it,may look fine and turn over, but will not start because the wrong camshaft was installed.   

[Enzo]

OK, there is absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to your guns.  You will never go wrong using the original spec parts.  If I told you the extremely common 2SC954 would work there, if you are not comfortable with that , then don't.  SImple as that.

I'll see your automotive analogy and reply with cooking.  I have a recipe for baked beans with burger.  It is on the label of some Van Camps Baked Pork and  Beans.   CHop some onions and brown them with loose meat burger browing in a large skillet.  Now dump a can of beans into the meat and stir.  A sort of basic chili.  You want to try it too, but all you have is Campbells Pork and Beans.  WIll it work?  Of course it will.  Will it be the same?  NO, it will have the taste difference between the Campbels and the VanCamps.  Not much difference.

Yes, the wrong cam shaft wont work in an engine.  If this is a Olds 442 1976, a Ford cam won't work.  But I suspect if you couldn;t get a Delco 76 442 cam, a NAPA 76 442 cam would also work.   Or if it wanted a battery with posts, and all you had was batteries with screw terminals.  The different battery would still work, you just have to put screw ends on the cables.

But enough of all that, just get the parts you want to use, and that will be that.

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
While I am moving right along with the transition, there seems to be a jumper wire that I do not know what it jumps to. It is right below the Reverb in and out.
I am under the impression it ties into Q101 somehow. I would appreciate any thoughts on the matter.

[galaxiex]

Looks like it *might* be the ground connection for the tank and/or that part of the circuit.

Take a pic of the other (copper) side of the board and indicate which hole is for the jumper.

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Well OK here goes.

[galaxiex]

Ok,

Show the location of both holes I have marked in this pic.

Mark right on the copper side of the board with a sharpie or pencil.
A small arrow or circle on the hole will do.

Then take a pic of the copper side of the board, but don't cover any of the board.

Please try to make sure the pic is in focus.

OR....

Harder to do... but if you hold the board up to a strong light with the copper side facing the light...

From the parts side you should be able to see the copper traces "thru" the board.

A good clear pic of that would be excellent.

But it may be very difficult to get the camera to expose properly and have a clear view of everything.

See what you can do. If it doesn't work then do the first.

EDIT;
Look carefully over the whole board for another hole marked "J"
It should might be there somewhere.....