DIY amp directions

[Lauren]

I can't figure out the quote feature...it just takes the whole post and won't let me select a small portion. LOL. 

Roly said: "In any case, it will go on its side horizontally between "i" and "j", +ve to the right, somewhere between the two vertical red wires.  Its -ve end to "i3" (your i5) and the +ve end to the +ve rail "j" wherever looks good, say around your j10-12 depending on its length."

How do I tell the -ve end from the +ve end?  Is it by using the arrow on the body that is pointing toward one end?  I don't see +/- signs anywhere on the component itself. 

[Lauren]

Both Caps I have look the same (except for size).

[galaxiex]

I noticed that all of the resistors have a copper-colored band.  In galaxiex's pics, I noticed two out of 3 times, the copper band in on top, but once, it's on the bottom.  Just making sure it doesn't matter.

Those pics really saved me from trying to figure out which were the right resistors from my huge pile!!   :tu:

Nope, it doesn't matter which way the resistors go, but as Roly pointed out in a previous post,
it's an aesthetic thing to have them all installed the same way.

Since I was just "trying things on for size" I didn't pay attention to which way the R's were installed.
When I get to soldering I like to do as Roly says... and install them all the same way.
Usually top to bottom and/or left to right.

[galaxiex]

Can you please tell me what color the bands are on R3?  I can't make it out from the pic and there are a couple in my batch that look similar. 

Thanks!

R3 is brown, black, black. gold. 

[galaxiex]

I can't figure out the quote feature...it just takes the whole post and won't let me select a small portion. LOL. 

Notice when you quote a post at the top there is a

[quote etc etc followed by another bracket]

text here...

then it ends with...

[/quote]

Delete, backspace, cut anything INSIDE the

[quote etc etc]

delete stuff here... and keep what you want...

[/quote]

The snippet MUST begin with the top [....] and MUST end with [/quote]

I can't find the  "it will go on its side horizontally between "i" and "j",... what is the "it" please?

How do I tell the -ve end from the +ve end?  Is it by using the arrow on the body that is pointing toward one end?  I don't see +/- signs anywhere on the component itself.

Which component please? 

Edit; Oh, the capacitor?
Notice the arrow has a minus sign *-* inside the arrow.
That is pointing to the -ve end.

[Roly]

My newish phone cam is pretty good, but I've got a cheapy from Aldi's that does a really good job of macros (which is what I really wanted it for) and a lousy job of telephoto bird pix (which was my secondary interest).  {I've actually tried my phone cam on one side of my bird watching binoculars and it worked very well for hand-held, so I have to kludge some sort of adapter.}

All the points you made, plus, whatever the camera, pile in the light - they all work better, digital or film.  I've used Irfanview (free) for nearly all my image viewing/processing needs i.e. mainly the website, cropping, reduction, Gamma correction.

The idea of surprising him with this is long gone, given my repeated trips to RadioShack and my sudden obsession with my iPad and this site.  LOL.

laugh

I have to confess that I think the whole thing is very romantic ... in a kinda feminist way.  (my first wife was a Radiation Chemist (CFC/ozone research).

I think Jerri { I  <3) a bass-playing geekgirrrl } is a good example of where you can find yourself if you follow your curiosity.  She did, I did, I'm sure many got into electronics (Maker) the same way.

asked yesterday if I'll ever be able to make him a stomp box.

Absolutely.  I have no doubt about it, and it's the logical next step (in your rapidly growing addiction evil ).

There is a fairly large mountain of kits and designs out there that cover just about anything you can think of.  Hack-A-Day is a good showcase for what people are tinkering with, and sometimes to an amazingly high level of dedication and applied expertise.

There are designs galore for stomps of all sorts (and quality), ranging from very complete to a bear bones circuit.  And many of them actually work.  {which is another way of saying that there is a fair bit of total rubbish out there too}


Here is a build thread for an ol' reliable, the S.H.O. {don't ask, it's tasteless, but it's otherwise right for you}

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stomp-box/131426-quick-easy-diy-sho.html

I sense a new thread a'comin'.

Easy WonderWoman!  Steady, settle, poco a poco, it'll all go down in it's own good time.


You really need to get some sort of soldering practice in somehow before you start on the board. 

What is wrong with Tapatalk?

Nuthin' at all, just implies that you might be struggling with a small screen.


Cop this find;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2JPMGikkow

{Disclaimer: I'm not boosting any particular company or product, but the How To Build in this is excellent.}

I noticed that all of the resistors have a copper-colored band.  In galaxiex's pics, I noticed two out of 3 times, the copper band in on top, but once, it's on the bottom.  Just making sure it doesn't matter.

Resistors are not polarised, they are bi-directional.

Having them all in the same direction is more a matter of easy readability of their values (covered above, post #45?).

The "copper colour" is actually supposed to be gold (and may be silver in some cases) and is the "tolerance band", in this case defining 5% resistors; the actual value of all resistors will be within 5% of their nominal value.

Its only interest here is to identify the bum end of the resistor so you can read its value in the right direction.


R3 is in series with the 47nF at the output and is 10 ohms, brown-black-black-(gold).
Brown = 1
Black = 0
Black = 10⁰, i.e. 10 to the zero, or times 1
10 x 1 = 10.

I can't figure out the quote feature...it just takes the whole post and won't let me select a small portion. LOL. 

You can quote the whole lot then edit out what you don't want.  I do all my editing and markup locally in my logging file (my editor has a lot of macros for easy markup) then copy paste the post.

The quote is part of your message and you can edit it, just be careful of the BBC Markup.

Both Caps I have look the same (except for size).

Well just do the same lay-down thing with C5 as with C3 (above), there should be room.



The negative is the right-hand lead on the axial above (note the stylised arrows), and the lower lead on the radial below.

[Lauren]

Just wanted to share my new tool...my Helping Hand arrived today! I am unnaturally excited about it. Lol

[Lauren]

In any case, it will go on its side horizontally between "i" and "j", +ve to the right, somewhere between the two vertical red wires.  Its -ve end to "i3" (your i5) and the +ve end to the +ve rail "j" wherever looks good, say around your j10-12 depending on its length.

Can leads from two different components overlap?  C2 is slightly overlapping R2 on my board right now.

Also, where does my axial C5 go (specifically)?

[Lauren]

Not sure if you already addressed this, but does it matter which side of the board I work on?  galaxiex is on the non-copper side, I noticed in the pics. 

[DrGonz78]

Not sure if you already addressed this, but does it matter which side of the board I work on?  galaxiex is on the non-copper side, I noticed in the pics.

Yup it does matter as you want that side with the copper to be "the solder side" of the board. In the end you will be soldering onto that side of the board so it is important to insert your component from the other side. Call the component side "The top of the board" and the copper side "the bottom of the board." Component side has no copper and the bottom side of the board has the copper.

Edit: Question... Is that the copper side we see with components on your pic?

[Lauren]

Thanks, DrGonz78!

[galaxiex]

Just wanted to share my new tool...my Helping Hand arrived today! I am unnaturally excited about it. Lol

A true DIYer to be excited about new tools!   <3)  :dbtu:

Yep, components go on the "top" side. Flip board over to solder the component leads on the copper side.
Can be tricky to hold parts in place for soldering when the board is up-side down.
One trick is to use tape of some kind to hold the parts when you flip the board to solder.
Roly mentioned putting the parts in place (one at a time) and then while holding them, turn board over (copper side up) and bend the leads to where they need to go.
The bent leads now hold the part, then you solder, and go on to the next part.

Did you watch this?    :dbtu:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2JPMGikkow

The good stuff starts at 3:51, the whole vid is only 8.5 minutes so worth it to watch! 

[Roly]

Can leads from two different components overlap?  C2 is slightly overlapping R2 on my board right now.

Also, where does my axial C5 go (specifically)?

Yes. The two leads from C2 and R2 both go to the ground rail so it doesn't matter if they touch.

Do the same lay-down with C5 as with C2, say between your c17 and 21b or 22b depending on its length, whatever seems neat.


How and WHY to Solder Correctly;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

[galaxiex]

Hey Lauren, what's happening? You still with us? 

[Lauren]

I am!  Sorry I've been MIA.  Life got busy suddenly with a sudden burst of motivation to do some work on our house.    Would love to have this completed by Oct. 14 (anniversary), so I'll be working on this again soon! Have you started soldering?