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Messages - lapsteelman
1
« on: March 02, 2013, 10:33:07 AM »
Pretty sure it was from 93 or 92, and I think the cover was yellow. These are the things that stick in my brain all these years!
2
« on: March 01, 2013, 10:34:03 PM »
I thought there might be some pack rats like me out there who had some back issues. I actually have a pretty good collection myself just not that issue. I'm sure a copy will surface on EBAY or I'll run across it somewhere.
3
« on: March 01, 2013, 07:17:54 PM »
I kind of want to find/read the article more out of a sense of nostalgia than anything else. I have never had a problem with the noise or distortion in the chip amps I have played with. ( except when I messed something up  ). I think the article was geared toward HI FI.
4
« on: March 01, 2013, 12:10:50 AM »
I doesn't surprise me that the concept might not be a winner, after all it's been 20 years and it hasn't exactly taken off like wildfire. I would still like to find the original article if possible and reread it, and it might be fun to put one together.
5
« on: February 28, 2013, 02:41:28 PM »
I am pretty sure the LM1875 was the power amp. It could have been the op-amp in the feedback of the power amp. I remember it wasn't the conventional pre amp/power amp configuration.
The muscle part was it basically gave you the low noise/THD of whatever op-amp amp you were using but with enough drive capacity to move a speaker to 10 to 20 watts.
I used to kill time when my girlfriend (now my wife) was in college by reading the electronics magazines in the library. At the time, I just couldn't get what they were doing in the circuit. I would like to revisit it.
6
« on: February 28, 2013, 11:01:25 AM »
I have a vague memory of an artical in Radio Electronics magazine in the early 90's about using an audio amplifer IC (I think it was the lm1875) and a low noise op amp in an unusual way. I seem to remember that the power amp was in the feedback loop of the op amp, but it was almost 20 years ago so I could be wrong. I think it would have been around 1993. If anyone has a scan of the original artical or can link me to more information on this circuit technique I would greatly appreciate it. I was pretty new to electronics at the time, but I think the jist was that using this circuit topology you got all the noise specs and low THD of the op amp, ( which I believe was a ne5534) and the power amp IC was just acting as the muscle. (again.......20 years ago, forgive me if I got it wrong).
Thanks
7
« on: January 09, 2013, 11:50:15 PM »
You might want to do a search on the Steel Guitar Forum. This amp is popular with pedal steel players and they have a pretty good electronics section on the fourm over there. I would be suspicious of the power supply caps also.
8
« on: April 07, 2012, 11:55:47 PM »
My friend plays a pedal steel through either a Peavey 400, or a Evans. Both have 15" speakers. He and his steel buddies have preferred 15" for a full range sound. Typically an EV?
With the 10" or 8" do you get more of a mid-range honk?
I think pedal steel players typically have more strings in the low registers and need the extra low end. I just play 6 string C6th. My lowest string in that tuning is only a .36 or .38 tuned to C. I am going for more of an old school Hawaiian sound. A lot of the old student lap steel and amp sets only came with an 8 inch speaker. I generaly turn the mids all the way down if the option is available.
9
« on: March 26, 2012, 09:38:16 AM »
I have played my C6th guitars through one of those Fender Acoustasonic amps and it had a real nice sound. Clear as a bell. I have played around with full range speakers on my own builds. It seems to be hit or miss. Some sound decent, others not so much. I went through Scottys book and CD. It's a good place to start. I also got a Rob Haines C6th video. I never could do much with Dobro G tuning. In the Arlen Roth video he does some stuff with that tuning. Lots of guys like it. ( For bluegrass it's almost mandatory  )
10
« on: March 25, 2012, 01:21:58 AM »
I have a few lap steels. My favorites are Magnatones. I have a couple of Oahus too. I personally love to play in C6th tuning, but when I play out it's all Open E because it works better for the kind of stuff I'm ask to play. (mostly 80's and 90's radio rock). Not much call for Hawaiian music here in MI. I would probably go with a Jensen Mod "10 for a speaker because they are reasonably priced and I like the sound of the 8" one I have. I love playing around with Audio amp IC's, and for C6th tuning you don't want much, if any distortion. So it works out good. The ones I have played with ( TDA2002, LM1875, TDA7240) didn't even need a preamp, although some tone shaping other than just the tone pot on the steel may have changed that. Heres a video clip of me playing steel. This is a Rickenbacker I used to have, I was demoing an overdrive I made. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2mI88xyXSo&listI am trying to avoid woodworking and I am also trying to be cheap.
11
« on: March 24, 2012, 04:25:07 PM »
12
« on: December 26, 2011, 10:30:34 PM »
I was finally able to download this book. Amazing!!! So much information, and for free!
Thanks
13
« on: December 09, 2011, 01:57:52 AM »
On a zobel network does it matter what order the resistor and cap go? I see it both ways in schematics. (Resistor first, cap to ground or cap then resistor to ground).
Thanks.
14
« on: December 08, 2011, 10:35:28 PM »
I am old school. I always draw out my perfboard layouts on 10 squares to the inch graph paper. As far as ossilations and layout, I just try to keep the input and outputs separated as much as practical, and separate signal and power grounds Anymore I just use "dead bug" or "ugly" construction for my one offs.
15
« on: October 13, 2011, 09:22:30 AM »
OK, so last night I am playing around with a chipamp (LM1875). I got the circuit done and needed to hook it up to a power supply. I had a power supply done up with a bridge rectifier and caps, but I couldn't find the center taped transformer in the garage. I wanted to test it so I hooked up an non center tapped transformer to the power supply board and it worked. ( Although the voltage were not equal, the negative was about 1.5 volts lower than the positive) I tried it with the amp and the amp worked fine. Is there a downside to doing this? Could I just put some equal, high value resistors across the caps to equal out the voltage?
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